Wednesday, July 13, 2022

58. Conant connections: Past and Present at St Andrew’s Church, Colyton

Continued from https://conant400.blogspot.com/2022/07/40-conant-connections-colyton-town.html

 



Of all the buildings of Colyton, St Andrew’s Church with its octagonal lantern tower stands out as a local landmark. The church’s size is an indication of the wealth of the town and its merchants. From medieval times wool manufacture had been a major industry in Colyton. The Feoffees charter of 1546 mentions that there were six fulling mills along the River Coly, where wool was treated in a cleansing process.


 

The lower part of the two-storey church porch has been dated as from the 15th century. It was in a room above this porch that Colyton Grammar School began life, founded “for the goodly and virtuous education of children in Colyton forever”.

 


 

The priest’s door is set into a beautifully carved frame in stone from the famous Beer quarries.

 


A view of the church interior

 


 

The oldest item on display in the church is this Anglo-Saxon cross, probably dating from the 10th century and described as ‘the best pre-Conquest sculpture in the county’.


 

The image of a lion on the Anglo-Saxon cross


 

This stone screen was installed by Thomas Brerewood, vicar of Colyton from 1522 to 1544

Naturally many American visitors to Colyton descended from Roger Conant will be interested in his father-in-law, the Feoffee John Clarke, born around 1520. Some of them may also be fascinated by the various church monuments with their transatlantic connections, including family links to early settlers in New England.  


 

The Katherine Pole memorial monument

The Popham Colony is known as the first English colony in New England, and was named after its financial backer Sir John Popham (1531-1607), noted for presiding over the trial of Sir Walter Raleigh in his role as Chief Justice of England.  

Shown above is the memorial in St Andrew’s Church to Sir John Popham’s sister Katherine, wife of William Pole (1515-1587). She was the daughter of Alexander Popham (c.1504-1556), of Huntworth, Somerset. 

The monument to Katherine shows her kneeling surrounded by her seven children.

Her nephew George Popham (1550-1608) sailed from Plymouth in 1607 with two ships and about 120 passengers and crew, landing in August at the mouth of the Kennebec River. Popham captained The Gift of God which became separated from the ship Mary and John on the journey to New England. The two ships were able to rejoin along the coastline before looking for a place to build a colony. There, he erected the first English settlement in New England, Popham Colony. His first establishments included a storehouse and a historical fortification called St. Georges Fort.  

 



A coat of arms on the Katherine Popham memorial

The Pole family arms of a lion rampant on a field of fleurs-de lys are shown alongside the Popham family arms of two bucks' heads.  



 

The Mary Pole memorial monument

Members of the Pole family, leading landowners in the parish of Colyton, were also involved in the early settlement of North America. Mary Pole (1567-1605) was the eldest daughter of Sir William Periham, of Little Fulford, near Crediton, Devon, a judge who rose to the position of Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer.


 

An anonymous 19th century Portrait of Sir William Pole, husband of Mary née Periham, painted in the manner of Van Dyck. Image credit: Wikipedia

She was the first wife of Sir William Pole (1561-1635), who lived at Shute House and later at Colcombe House, both near Colyton. Known for his work as a Devon historian and antiquarian he wrote many unpublished manuscripts containing his researches into the history and antiquities of the county and the descents of its ancient families, their landholdings and heraldry.

Sir William was also an investor in The Virginia Company, an English trading company chartered by King James I on 10 April 1606 with the object of colonizing the eastern coast of America.


 

Old Shute House, near Colyton, Devon, home of the Pole family. Bird's eye view from west, painted prior to partial demolition of 1785. Image credit: Wikipedia

With Mary he had six sons and six daughters. One of the sons, a triplet, was William Pole (1593–1674). Baptised on 4 December 1593 at Shute, he matriculated at Oriel College, Oxford on 24 March 1610, graduating Bachelor of Arts on 3 November 1612. He entered the Inner Temple as a lawyer in 1616, and emigrated to America in 1637, where he died on 24 February 1674.

He and his wife, Mary Jane Greene, were the parents of at least two sons and three daughters.


 

Plaque depicting Elizabeth Pole, founder of Taunton, Massachusetts, located on the front of the Pilgrim Congregational Church. Image credit: Marcbela (Marc N. Belanger); Wikipedia

The third daughter, Elizabeth Pole (1588–1654), followed her brother in emigrating to America. She left Weymouth, Dorset, on 22 April 1637 on the Speedwell, travelling with two friends, 14 servants, goods valued at £100, and twenty tons of salt for fishing provision.

The pair played a prominent role in the foundation and incorporation of Taunton, Massachusetts in 1639–40, where Elizabeth died on 21 May 1654.  

 


 

The Sir John Pole memorial monument in St Andrew’s church, Colyton

Shown above is the monument with a life-sized effigy of William and Elizabeth’s elder brother Sir John Pole (1589-1658). He lies under an ornate canopy supported on Corinthian columns. Sir John lived at Shute and at Bromley St Leonards, Middlesex.  

 


 

The William Westover monument  Image credit: Mike Searle; www.geograph.org.uk

This exquisitely detailed monument commemorates the Colyton merchant William Westover (died 1617), with his wife and daughter. The inscription panel below also records the death and burial of William Drake in 1680, a descendant by marriage of the Westover family. William Westover was the grandfather of Thomas Drake (1635-91), who emigrated to New England and settled in Weymouth, Massachusetts in around 1653.


 

Inspired as I am by the idea of Roger Conant the Peacemaker from four centuries ago I found a special meaning for present times in a corner of the church. St Andrew’s has used its Lady Chapel to emphasise the need for peace and reconciliation to end the conflict in Ukraine. The colours of the Ukrainian and Russian flags have been used to decorate the screen, as seen above.  



 

Visitors are invited to light a candle.


 


Next to the blue and yellow drapes of Ukraine’s flag are printed posters displaying a prayer composed by the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and another by the Rev Dr Sam Wells, Vicar of St Martin-in-the-Fields, London.

St Andrew’s church is not alone in this respect. There are Peace Chapels at Ripon Cathedral, Bath Abbey, Holy Trinity Church in Coventry, and St Andrew’s Church in Cobham. In Norwich, at St George’s Roman Catholic Church, the Holy Family Chapel has become a Peace Chapel for the duration of the conflict in Ukraine. Here, as in Colyton, visitors to the Chapel are very welcome to light a candle there and pray for peace.

 

Roger Conant intervenes to avoid likely bloodshed in 1625 at Cape Ann, Massachusetts. A dispute had arisen between West Country fishermen and separatist Puritans of the Plymouth Colony led by Myles Standish, their military adviser.  © John Washington 

I will definitely be sending a photo of John Washington’s painting ‘Blessed are the Peacemakers’ to the Rector of the Holyford Mission Community of which St Andrew’s, Colyton, is part. It will be accompanied by an explanation of the link between his magnificent church and the son-in-law of Colyton Feoffee John Clarke: Roger Conant founder of Salem, Massachusetts.  

 

  

Thursday, July 7, 2022

57. Conant connections: Colyton town

 


 

A Monmouth rebel greets you at the car park in Colyton  

Most Devonians know that East Budleigh was the birthplace of Sir Walter Raleigh, and by now, I hope, quite a few more know that it was also where Roger Conant was born.

Less than 20 miles north-east of the village is the attractive little town of Colyton. Like East Budleigh it’s noted for its picturesque old buildings but is more celebrated as ‘the most rebellious town in Devon’ because of the role that many of its inhabitants played in the Monmouth Rebellion of 1685 during the reign of the Catholic King James II.

The town was one of the main areas of religious dissent in East Devon. When the Protestant Duke of Monmouth, an illegitimate son of King Charles II, landed on the coast of Dorset in June that year, 105 men from Colyton - more than any other Devon  town - chose to follow him rather than remain loyal to the Crown.  


 

The Battle of Sedgemoor is often referred to as the last pitched battle fought on English soil.  The four playing cards from this commemorative pack of 1685 illustrate incidents in Monmouth’s rebellion and were evidently produced as government propaganda: the ‘King’ card depicts devils in the air bewitching Monmouth’s army. Image © The Trustees of the British Museum

Monmouth was defeated at the Battle of Sedgemoor on 6 July. It’s not known how many Colyton men were killed in the battle, but thirty-three were taken prisoner. Twenty-four were sentenced to be transported into slavery, and fifteen were hanged.

Just over a century earlier, Colyton people showed a similar independence of spirit during the reign of Henry VIII. But the circumstances were less bloody and the events are very much part of Roger Conant’s story.

 



Henry Courtenay, KG, shown 2nd from left wearing a mantle displaying his arms, detail from procession of Garter Knights in the Black Book of the Garter, c.1535. Image credit: Royal Collection, Windsor; Wikipedia

Much of the land in Devon and Cornwall was owned by Henry Courtenay, 1st Marquess of Exeter and Earl of Devon, who was a cousin and friend of Henry VIII. But the religious and political upheavals of the English Reformation in the 1530s led Courtenay into rivalry with Thomas Cromwell.

 



Portrait of Thomas Cromwell in 1532-3 by Hans Holbein the Younger. Image credit: The Frick Collection; Wikipedia

As Henry’s chief minister, Cromwell had sufficient influence at Court to destroy his enemies, and in November 1538, Courtenay was arrested on suspicion of treason. After a brief trial he was beheaded on 9 December at Tower Hill in London. His lands were seized by the Crown and the Earldom of Devon was declared forfeit.

 


 

Old Church House near St Andrew’s Church dates from 1612, and is a three-storey building formerly used by the Colyton Feoffees. Feoffee is an ancient word meaning a trustee who holds a 'fief', i.e. an estate in land for the use of the beneficial owner.   

A group of 20 Colyton merchants saw an opportunity to create, with royal agreement, a form of self-government in the town, and travelled to Westminster to state their case in 1546.

The King agreed to the sale of Courtney’s estates in the town – ‘the manor of Coliton’ – subject to the proceeds being used for ‘good, godly and commendable uses’.  On 6 January 1546, the Colyton Chamber of Feoffees was established.



The door of Old Church House


Colyton is still run by the Feoffees, who now meet in this Tudor revival style building, dating from around 1927.


 

Not just any old town council building. The inscription above the front door proudly states that it is the Feoffees Town Hall

 



The front of Colyton Grammar School in 2013. The School moved in 1927 from Colyton to its present site in the nearby village of Colyford Image credit: Bookwork72; Wikipedia  

The English Reformation had a major impact in the area of education. What has become known as the Dissolution of the Monasteries was followed by a surge in the number of grammar schools. By 1540 all the abbeys, friaries and other religious houses with their cloister schools had been abolished.

Nine miles west of Colyton, at Ottery St Mary, the choir school established by Bishop Grandisson in 1335 was replaced by a grammar school and named The King’s School in 1545.

One of the first acts of the Feoffees was the founding of Colyton Grammar School ‘for the goodly and virtuous education of children in Colyton forever’.  



This Grade II listed building, next to St Andrew's Church in Colyton, was built in 1835. For a time it was used by Colyton Grammar School before the move in 1927. Thanks to Jane Dauncey for this information. Jane organises walking tours of Colyton. See www.colytonhistory.co.uk/colyton-history-tours.php

The astute Colyton merchants during their visit to London may even have suggested that the new school be named in the monarch’s honour like Ottery St Mary’s grammar school. They would have guessed that following suit would be an obvious way of flattering King Henry to achieve their aim of self-government.

Prominent among these merchants who travelled to London in 1546 was John Clarke, whose daughter Agnes would marry Roger Conant’s father, Richard.  Clarke’s importance in the town is evident from the entry in parish records following his death:  

"John Clarke, the elder of Coliton, merchant was buried IX of Aprill, who in his lyfe time was the cheffest traviler of the purchas of the manor of Coliton, and the markets, with other lyberties pertaining the same, as aperieth by the pattent - and deceased the VI day of Aprill 1585."

A walking tour of Colyton might include all the buildings that would have stood in John Clarke’s time. No doubt Roger Conant would have been familiar with them during visits to his grandparents.


 

Brerewood House

On the west side of St Andrew’s Church stands Brerewood House, currently the vicarage. It was the home of Dr Thomas Brerewood, who was Vicar of Colyton from 1524 to 1544 and Chancellor to John Veysey, Bishop of Exeter from 1519 to 1551.


 

The front entrance to Brerewood House


 

The Merchant’s House

Other houses in Colyton like this building, known as the Merchant’s House, are evidence of the town’s wealth in the past. The elegant plasterwork of the ceilings in the front part of the house dates from the early 17th century. The building now includes the Colyton Heritage Centre.


 

The Great House

Away from the town centre on South Street is the Great House. It was home to the Yonge or Young family who settled in Devon during the reign of King Henry VII and were prominent wool merchants. The building is largely early 17th century, but two Tudor fireplaces indicate that it was originally an Elizabethan mansion.


 

The tannery of J. & F.J. Baker & Co Ltd. King Street, Colyton

My tour of Colyton ended at this unprepossessing building next to a nice garden centre. It’s something of a contrast to the town’s ancient buildings but appearances can be deceptive. J. & F.J. Baker is Britain's only remaining traditional oak bark tannery.

Oak bark leather has been tanned here on the banks of the River Coly since Roman times, with a process that has hardly changed for centuries.The long slow tannage ensures that the natural fibres that make up a hide are allowed to remain in their natural weave. This produces a nice firm, hard wearing piece of leather, with good water resistance. Baker's leather is used for bespoke shoe-making and is also ideal for saddlery and harness leathers due to its high tensile strength.


 

The yard is split into 72 pits, each with a progressively stronger concentration of the tanning solution. New hides will spend the first three months working their way up the yard from the weaker to stronger solutions. They’re suspended from sticks throughout their progress to ensure an even colour is absorbed all over each pelt. Image credit: www.colvilleleather.co.uk

I included the Colyton tannery because of Roger Conant’s experience as a salter. Salt was used in so many processes in the past apart from the preservation of food. As I was told at the tannery it was used in the curing of animal hides; the skins were soaked in a saltwater brine.


 

A tannery had been in existence since the 16th century in East Budleigh, at the house now known as ‘Christophers’, pictured above. It apparently produced buckets for the Tudor navy as well as the usual leather products of boots, shoes and gloves.  

It was located on the village outskirts; tanneries tended to be smelly places. The Conant family would surely have been aware of their economic importance. Did Richard Conant choose an apprenticeship with the Salters’ Company for young Roger having visited such manufacturing sites in East Budleigh and Colyton? Who knows?   


Continued at https://conant400.blogspot.com/2022/07/conant-connections-past-and-present-at.html